What did you do to your Saloon today

(DaveMoore) #21

:slight_smile: Plan to cut it when all the seams are welded. I trialed fitted the grill before I made the final patch. Just as well I did as the ‘dip’ at the bottom of the valance had just enough clearance. I had to adjust slightly extending it down to ensure there was enough room for paint!

Could I get some advice on the final prep. I have protected the bare metal with etch primer.and or a high quality rust converter. Gives a good base for paint. I plan to use a two pack epoxy paint on the underside. My question is about application of the filler. Should I continue the epoxy over the top of the valance - max protection - but all the instructions for filler suggest it go onto bare metal?

(Ian) #22

There are lots of fillers on the market , your need to rub down the primer to get a good key , most stick like sh-t to a blanket !
This one says ok to add to paint ! 711663%5B1%5D

(Phil.Dobson) #23

Finally the metal work is finished!

![image|666x500](upload://zNui8OfrqE2ilU6PhfXeh9Xh3Yh.jpeg) ![image|666x500](upload://4uhBMXhvd7e9NVuI5EYfYGUx8fT.jpeg) ![image|666x500](upload://AtBKvvWqO3dQJAJfN2Ki7rOlzml.jpeg)

(TheoSoares) #24

Love the louvers! How did you do them? I’ve been told “hot rod guys have louver presses”… but my car is already painted so I feel like it will have to wait.

(Phil.Dobson) #25

Great question on the Louvres. I wanted etype (14) but none of the body guys I spoke to were prepared to Louvre the bonnet so I bought an available part in Ali.

The body shop put a swage on the cut out and bonded the Louvre in from the top. I’m really pleased with the result as you get the full height of the Louvre. The other item I’m pleased with is the rear spats. These are metal a welded.

More to follow!

With best regards
Philip Dobson

(DaveMoore) #26

Body work looks awesome Phil.

(Phil.Dobson) #27

many thanks. its taken ages. the underside is now like new and extra welding as per coombes.

(TheoSoares) #28

Got my O2 sensor in and found both carbs running way rich at idle and then leaning out under load. Seems backwards. Pulled the needles and found they are UVU (from a V8 Rolls). No wonder. Also one was set 1mm lower than the other, so the carbs were not in sync, either. Ordered UM’s. The O2 sensor is really a cool tool for fine tuning and I’m hoping I can really dial in the carbs.

(Paul Breen pay palled it) #29

This is interesting! I might be interested in doing something similar. Expect that you could go car to car if you could anti sieze and plug the holes? Paul

(TheoSoares) #30

I put bungs in both pipes. There’s a plug in one and the sensor in the other. They’re right at the bottom of the downpipes just where the pipes bend, so accessible from above or from below without jacking it up. It’s only been a day but should probably investigate some kind of anti-seize for the plug so it doesn’t get stuck?

(Andrew Waugh) #31


I’d use a brass plug in the one which is blanked off.

Do the sensors need power whenever the engine is running?

(TheoSoares) #32

OK, I’ll get some anti-seize. Any tips of what is right for an exhaust pipe?

And yes, the gauge powers the sensor whenver the key is on, it’s heats the sensor at startup and then keeps it hot.

(tony) #33

added these green BA7 tiny bulbs that illuminate the indicators

they are great, my indicators interior bulbs have always been inadequate, these are much better.

I believe these bulbs are also fitted that illuminate a plastic strip, so I will probably order some more. $6 for 4 posted, arrived in 1week,

ones from UK, would have been $20 for 2 + $20 post

I also swapped my water temp guage from my '69 420G which reads “NORMAL”
to a '67 420G item, which is marked in degrees C

(tony) #34

I use Permatex Copper with Bentonite clay on exhaust stuff.

I believe O2 sensors have their own high temp anti-sieze already applied ?

You are supposed to be very sparing with anti-sieze near an O2 sensor

is rated to 1200C…my exhaust specialist mate reckons it burns away, but I do not agree, and use it always on exhaust stuff, with good results

(Andrew Waugh) #35

Coppa Slip, Never-Seez. (The Nickel based ones are less visible). Obviously, be careful not to get it in the sensor itself.


I have fitted bungs into my down pipes in the same pace as Theosoares. They are stainless as are the down pipes themselves. They were welded with steel filler , not stainless since the welder could not do that - I hope they will stay in place and not leak.
I was wondering which O2 sensor readout system Theosoares used.
I have provisionally selected one by:-
but I would consider others as well.


Need to rebuild calipers on the 59 MK I. Found kits for the front but none for the rears.
Any suggestions appreciated.

(TheoSoares) #38

I got a digital guage from Autometer, comes with a sensor. Picture of the gauge installed in glovebox is a few posts up.

(Paul Wigton) #39

A friend of mine, the guy from whom I learnt to do body work, told me years back (semi) facetiously, about bodywork/painting:

-Do all the rust and panel repair: 6 years.

-Do all the door/boot/bonnet/et cetera fitting: 3 years.

-Do the final prep before priming: 6 months.

–Do all the guide coating repairing small issues: 2 years.

-Paint: 2 hours.


(Phil.Dobson) #40

That’s a long time to paint a car Paul🤓

With best regards