Enjoyed the video - I just love driving with the bonnet off when you can see the front suspension at work.
A few weeks ago, I’ve adapted the left wing from my S3 to the body of the car.
I’ve added metal plate on the left side and a line( not sure what is the right word…) of metal with a diameter of 3mm.
These last days, I’ve finished ( or close to be) the filler.
Just have to got ahead on the center panel of the bonnet. As so many before, filler and sanding for several hours
Congratulations. Your gaps look great.
Yes, gaps look great, but don’t make the edge to scuttle (firewall) gap too small, the hinge is in the front and the bonnet gets bigger when it gets hot! (Pls don’t ask me how I found out!)
Took a look under wraps, pushed the pedals, turned the wheels, rolled a bit back and forth. It’s still a long time until spring!
Happy New Year everyone!
Car still idles rough/runs rich after 2 months work - I'm at a wall
Hi Bob, I wonder if the paint is heat resistant, I also painted my block with special paint, but it was not heat resistant. Now I have a can with heat resistant paint, but it is grey and the engine is green now. What shall do?
Hi Pat, good idea, I see extra strength to the floor, did you make it yourself or can you buy such a long piece metal. Racing body?
Frank, those stell panels strengtheners are part of the Low Drag shell specification, indeed probably applies to OTS aluminium shells as well. I don’t think they would be required for a steel tub, but if you wished to fit a set I suspect RS Panels would sell you a pair.
Beginning with an engine rebuild a year ago, Shipwright’s disease and original A/C install has brought me to this point today. Sanded, primed, seam sealed most of the firewall, today completed second coat of signal red acrylic urethane, It took two rattle cans to do the lower firewall, inside sill extensions, and far interior of the footwells. I am impressed with quality of this paint, which I’ve never used before. I had a pro shoot the frame rails due to their complexity. Time to put the frames on, engine in, and see what all those restored sub-assemblies look like back on the car.
Happy to finalize a speedo exchange.
I did have a mph speedo. It was not the original one from my car. As I m in France I wanted to have a km/h face at least and I did buy a label and I updated the mph speedo.
These last days I ve ssold it to someone in Germany as I ve I found an original km/h one in a very good condition. Just a few painting scratch to be rework.
I dont know the meening of the last 3 digits “700” on the right side.
The last digits e.g. 700 refer to the rotations (per mile) per km, depending on which rear end ratio you have. There is a compilation of the different speedos available, I just don‘t have that list available at the moment. David from the UK forum I believe made the list.
Or is it rotations per Km? 700/Km is very close to 1120/mi which was used for the 3.08 rear end.
Geo, correct, it should be per km on km/h speedo‘s and per mile on mph speedo‘s. The above post edited now.
So I scared the crap out of myself today, fettling a brand new shiny rear bumper so it actually fits my car…3hrs on it so far and probably another 1.5hrs to go…cut and grind with care, you can’t easily put metal back on if you go too far! I’m sure I’ll have to do the other side when it arrives…wait time is at least a couple of months on these.
Yep: took me a couple weeks to fit mine.
You miiiight consider not breaking it down too far…
- Installed new clutch master cylinder and hydro static slave cylinder.
After rebuilding them 2 mo ago I had one problem after another, They couldn’t
be bled properly.Finally they started leaking, the clutch cylinder’s circlip came off,so I decided to go with new units.I bled the system from the slave cylinder with an oil can pump, and the clutch feels great and is level with the brake pedal which makes me very happy.
- Made sure the gap at the slave cylinder was .75" as per Bentley book.
- Was able to check TOB.