Awesome lawn art. How does one go about getting glass for something like this? Does it have to be custom fabricated or does Pilkington have a form for this?
Pilkington provide front screen, which is heated, the remainder is perspex.
Absolutely gorgeous. And now the real fun begins! Congrats on getting her home. Looks like a fun winter project.
What a gorgeous piece of work indeed!
Is that an off-the-shelf roll-around stand? Do you have a link?
Malcolm Sayer might be smiling a little bit today since there is now another pretty low drag body in the world.
68 E-type FHC
Steve. If you are only using it to do one car you can make up a pretty servicable roll around cart with 20 dollars worth of 2x4’s 4 pneumatic swivelling castors and a few construction screws. Mine was less than 100 bucks all in and the rubber tires make it easy to roll outside for messy stuff. Not that pretty and you need to cover the wood with a welding blanket if you are welding on anything but most of your welding is usually on a rotisserie anyways. Bonus. When you finish you have material for your bbq pit. (Not the rubber tires)
I bought two stands from a national tool supplier here in UK. I then modified them and fitted longitudinal pieces to allow for SWB and LWB ETypes. They are also adjustable for other types of cars. Once on it’s own wheels I am selling it as this is the last E Type I am restoring.
Working on hidden subframe, installed first panel with stainless steel high strength rivets and very expensive chassis leg has arrived from england.
Since I ve started my restauration, I use to look at ebay uk, ebay us, le bon coin, kleinanzeigen sites to find good spare parts.
I ve got a chance to get a brand new wipper motor for a cheap cost.
I ll replace mine and sell it on ebay for the same value.
One part to not be restored. Save time at a good price. Just have to be a bit patient.
Excellent. There are still bargains out there, but as you point out one needs to be patient.
Interesting that you are using structural rivets. Are you using structural bond as well? It seems to be the way new car manufacture is going. Is that bonding agent in your last picture or is it seam sealer?
The gap between the left wing and the body was too important
I ve spend a few hours to add a metal part.
Nice job! When we did our 69 back in 80-81 I had the sills replaced and we ended up with a similar problem as yours. We could not adjust the bonnet to correct the fit so my son built up the sill with All Metal to fit the bonnet and going on 40 years later it’s still perfect.
Would you not consider spot welds instead of rivets as per original?
In response to welding vs. stainless steel high strength rivets… I don’t have a spot welder or a TIG, just a MIG with C25 gas. The Mig works great on thicker steel but it is very easy to burn through with the thinner panels. I know the trick of backing up the panel with a copper block. I also had some fit problems that the rivets can bridge. The black goop is polyurethane flashing and gutter seal, very tenacious stuff, more of a sealer than a bonding agent. Lets hope I am never the one to have to take it apart some day.
Yes. I think that sentiment is pretty universal.
I added rear sway bar mount collars. I never had an issue with them migrating with the old rubber ones but the poly ones seem to have less squish to them so they kept wanting to migrate inboard. Whiteline 18mm in case anyone needs them.
oh my goodness Pat. looks stunning already
First Test Drive after 4.2 hobby style engine rebuild, etc.
Idles too high, rear brakes not biting, but doesn’t overheat and sounds great.
Stock box fluid shifts but sluggish starts (engine tight after re-sleeving).