Well, We Did It . .

(Scott Johnson) #21


I hear what you’re saying, but I left out some information. Supposedly it does need a clutch. The only reason I didn’t mention it was because I’m not sure if it’s due to wear on the clutch assembly itself, or too much oil from the seal. So regardless, I’m afraid the engine is coming out. But I definitely agree with not ending up with a multi-year project right off the bat.


(Robert Thomas 68 FHC ) #22

Scott, yes that does change things. A couple of thoughts though. Check to be certain it’s actually the mechanical clutch that needs replacing, and not a bad master or slave, or even a linkage out of adjustment before you pull the engine. Maybe you’ll get lucky.

(Scott Johnson) #23

Good thoughts. I’m planning to rebuild or replace masters for clutch and brake and slave on clutch.

(Raccoonman) #24

We have a Model A club here in Charleston that must boast a couple of dozen roadworthy examples; I was waiting a light with one next to me one Saturday and when the light went green that old A stepped out smartly and kept on accelerating leaving a small crowd of confused drivers and myself behind in a light blue haze of smoke. Yep, it was a stock A. Actually pretty good for town driving if you keep the brakes adjusted (not a difficult task). My aversion to them is the amount of wood (hence, potential rot) in the body framing, not the running gear. My Dad adored the little buggers. I admire them. Slight difference.

(Erica Moss) #25

Glad you’re moving forward with it! I was kind of surprised earlier when you said you were going to pass and I was half tempted to ask if I could talk to him even though I need another one like I need another hole in my head.

From the little we’ve seen it really does look like a fantastic starting point. Do you know if it was originally white since it’s obviously been repainted? Fingers crossed it wasn’t painted because of bondo patches in the sills. I’m really surprised at how good the interior looks. Those seat hides might be able to made clean and supple again with a bit of work

(67 OTS S1) #26

i had all my hydraulics bored and sleeved by White Post. Comes with lifetime guarantee i think.

(Scott Johnson) #27


I don’t know for sure if it was originally white (or “cream”), but I think the odds favor it. One of the first things I will do once I take title is order the Heritage certificate. If it was not originally white, the body was completely stripped. I’ve dug into the boot floor area, and what is there appears to be original white paint (vs. other areas that are definitely repainted), but I could be wrong about it being original. I see no evidence of bondo from my tapping around the body, although I admittedly haven’t taken a magnet to it. It was originally a SoCal car, and my friend purchased it out of Palm Springs back in the '80s.

On the “hides”, they’re not really hides. In a very odd move, the PO from Cal upholstered the seats in a very high quality vinyl. He was allegedly concerned about the extremely dry desert environment to cause leather to prematurely crack. My friend the seller reminded me again today that he has a “brand new” BAS upholstery kit that goes with the car. Our conversation went something like this:

Me: So when you say “new”, you mean it was new when you bought it 20 years ago?
Him: Right.
Me: How long has it been since you actually laid eyes on it?
Him: Probably shortly after I bought it.
Me: Do you know where it is?
Him: I think I put it under my bed where it would be safe.

:laughing: We shall see.

He is tremendously excited that it will be going to me and says it makes parting with the rest of his fleet a lot easier.

(Mitchell Andrus) #28

Crane? who needs a crane? Gravity did all the work. See it on the cart under the car?

(Scott Johnson) #29

I think Erica is referring to using a crane to lift the front of the car up, leaving the engine behind (via gravity). Basically wondering how you lifted the car. (but perhaps you knew that)

(Mark Gordon) #30

Yup. Lifetime guarantee on first rate work.

(Erica Moss) #31

Ah so you build that trolley at the exact height of the laden engine and transmission and jacked up the car around it? That’s novel!

(Mitchell Andrus) #32

Floor jacks, front and rear, and a bottle jack. It’s just a matter of managing and conquering gravity. Once you’ve helped to move a house, cars are easy.

(Erica Moss) #33

Somehow the lump had to be transferred to the trolley. Did you just build it close in height, and then deflate the tires until it settled into place?

(Mitchell Andrus) #34

No, I removed the tires and lowered the car til the engine rested on the trolley with the floor jacks turned out through the wheel wells so they could be pumped. The motor mount were disconnected and the car lifted til the trans could be dragged out from under it.

To reinstall I lowered the car til the motor mounts could be installed and then the car was lifted with the engine mounted on new motor mounts.

I did this the same way on my '64 while in HS in '74. No engine hoist, just imagination.

There are some Youtubes showing this being done. Youtube is a valuable tool. I use professor Youtube quite often.

(Erica Moss) #35

Sweet! For those of us with garage size challenges this could be a nice maneuver. I do recall when mine was dropped down with a crane there was a bit of do-si-do to get the rear to clear the frame reaction plate ears but I guess that should be doable by jockeying the trolley about.

Mine has to come out sooner than later for a rear seal and clutch. If only there were hydraulic engine stands so it could be mounted on the ground and jacked up to working height.

(Scott Johnson) #36

Very impressive. I’m just thankful for a friend with a two post lift and about 16’ ceiling clearance.

(Paul Wigton) #37

Maybe if you ask nicely, @69Cat might letcha do it in his shop, and lend capable hands…:grimacing:

(Erica Moss) #38

I think poor Steve’s up to his nose hairs in disassembled jaguar!

(Steve) #39

My God!!! I’m behind schedule… Or did God help you?

(Steve) #40