Starting my S1 XJ6 LS1 swap

(Robin O'Connor) #41

30mm = just shy of 1” & 1/4’’

(Paul Wigton) #42

How in the WORLD do ya reckon that???

(Carl Hutchins, Jr. ) #43

Serious ? Or ironic?

If serious, I just looked carefully at the distance between the coils, starting at the bottom and working up.

And, indeed, photo’s can be deceiving.

Off to the DR. in while, again. More checkup stuff.


(Robin O'Connor) #44

Same number of coils but are they a larger diameter on the kings? They look a bit thicker?

(Paul Wigton) #45

It’s not compressed: it’s shorter!


not a lot of progress again, currently in the midst of the rear end rebuild and fuel tank swap. i have 3 of the 4 tanks out. struggling getting the last one out of the donor car. about to fit a fuel cell and be done with it. can’t get the bloody filler neck off the passenger side tank.

also, the series 3 has a brace on the rear coil over, the series 1 doesn’t. well at least my S1 doesn’t. question is, is it supposed to have one?

(phillip keeter) #47

On the stubborn filler neck, lots of PB spray (nut loosening spray), let sit awhile, then employ a hammer and hard wood bar (hammer handle, etc.). Worked on mine. Good luck!

(Roger Mabry) #48

Putting on the PB BLASTER AND TWISTING… is the solution… that is the hardest part in changing the tanks…


passenger side filler neck still refuses to come out of the S3. been using deep creep liberally. i was able to get it about an inch up. doesn’t want to twist or come up any more. i can move it back down some. tried the up and down thing while spraying liberally several times. seems to get stuck at the same point.
anyone think the deep creep is causing the seal to swell? i have since switched to PB blaster as of a couple days ago. liberally applied as well.
may move onto a heavy rope and a come along suspended from the rafters?? or buy a new tank.

(Carl Hutchins, Jr. ) #50

Just a wild idea. A means to apply percussion.

A means to rig a big slide hammer How to position your self over the tank to impart upward movement needs some thinking. A ladder ?


(phillip keeter) #51

From the archives.
Good luck!!


interesting pics above. i suspect my filler cap looks the the one in the pic. although the driver side was clean. i have a feeling the switch over valve was faulty and the right tank bypassed for some time judging by the corrosion seen on the visible part of the neck.
any idea what has been jammed down in the tank in the pic? a weightlifting bar perhaps? looks to be knurled in places?


i do like the slide hammer idea. may have to try and rig up something

(Carl Hutchins, Jr. ) #54

The pictures are too dark for my machine to clearly read the text. but, that bar may be reinforcing steel I it is “corrugated”. A way if imparting weighty force.

OH, me the filler in that picture is seemingly so weak as to collapse with any force.

A vague idea of a cutter that would fit into the neck and cut it is floating amongst my grey cells. Manual or electric???

An inside can opener concept.


(Paul Wigton) #55

Percussive adjustment, please.


(Carl Hutchins, Jr. ) #56

Yup, mighty whacks one way or another.

Very scientific and useful on many devices.

I often recall the Normandy Beach scene in he “Longest Day” movie. A very correct Brit SGT. major and a stalled vehicle,. A few whacks of his baton awoke the beast.

And a couple of years ago, I got a last crank from the dying starter on my Jeep. it dired and I got home and avoided a flat bed ride. A whack from my shileafleagh on the starter !!f


(Geoff Allam) #57

Many years ago I was driving home from the lake with my kids in an xj6 that I drove for many years. Anyway the alternator suddenly stopped charging. At 60 miles from the city And in the dark I was worried that I would not make it back to the city. I got out and gave the alternator a couple of sharp raps with a hammer and voila- charging again. To this day my daughter says that to fix a Jaguar it just takes a couple of taps with a hammer. When I took the alternator apart the brushes were binding and the raps just allowed them to move back into contact.


well, still fighting the filler neck. ended up with a 1 ton chain hoist attached to it. and after snapping 2 different ropes, went to a ratchet strap. still doesn’t want to come out. been through about a can of pb blaster. if it wasn’t a gas tank the cutting torch would come out.
would prefer not to pull down the roof. may have to throw in the towel, surrender, and head to to you pull it salvage yard.

(Carl Hutchins, Jr. ) #59


More way out there “ideas”.

  1. Remove the boot lid for a place to stand. Climb aboard and jump up and down a few times. Adds the percussion effect

  2. Can you reach the neck from in the boot with a recip saw? Yes, the metalto metal spark issue must be dealt with. Fill the tank with water?? That would also add down lod on the @#%##$ neck.

  3. Yeah, I’d be tempted to unlimber the blue wrench. but, too many flammables nearby…

  4. thinking spark avoidance again, a big chisel ???

  5. How about thinking some more of a means to cut the neck from inside the neck. A necked down cut off wheel on a drill. Spark protection needed here as well.

  6. Last desperate measure before the Pick and Pull. Cut, an opening for the recip saw in the quarter panel. Weld it back do the finnish and be done!!! You might fin d a ton of rust there just under the C post about to erupt.

Keep punching, it has to give…


(David Jauch) #60


Whack the inside of the neck with a small hammer or air chisel. Depending of what exactly builds up in there (looking at used parts on ebay there’s rust and/or some goop) that might loosen it a little.

Fill the tank with water and insert an electric water heater. The flap is in the perfect location so you will heat mostly the neck. No sparks besides you have the water in there so no (t much) danger anyways.

Put acid around the neck and see if it dissolves anything on the way down. Not advisable if you fear that you lose everything below the cap.

Freeze it with the compressed air cans and whack the hell out of it with the crane installed, tank filled and trunk loaded. By then the panel must be distorted.

Hone the neck until it’s gone.