I notice you don’t have power steering. Have you considered it?
I have a mk9 and have enjoyed your writeups.
I removed the engine from an Stype I had some years ago in much the same manner. I can’t understand why some people persist in trying to get it out from the top. This is by far the easiest way unless you have full garage facilities and a couple of helpers.
I notice you don’t have power steering. Have you considered it?
Wardell , I did have a 14 inch wheel on , have gone up to a 15 now , as I get older the size of the steering wheel will go up lol
It’s fine when your moving , and great going around the bends , heavy parking , but all the time I am fit I will keep it as it is !
Looked at the HS8 carbs , I have a box of them so pulled one out to have a look , to see what the problem could be , blowing in to the fuel feed at the bottom of the jet , I could keep blowing , as air was escaping where the needle fits in the top , so pulled the suction chamber out and lightly stuck a finger over the hole , I could not keep blowing , it was holding pressure , so no fuel could get out !
Looked at the needle and it was very worn , so got the suction chamber out a carb on the car , and tried again , it was 95% sealing , I pulled down the choke a little and air rushed out .
Looked at the choke on the carb in the car and it was very slightly lower then the bridge in the carb , so set wrong
So When the choke is on , and ignition on , fuel pump pumping , the fuel will pass the needle , as the centre part of the jet is lower then the top of the needle .
When the engine is cranking the fuel air will be sucked in , so should be ok .
Choke on ignition on , no cranking fuel will poor out
3 pics of carb , 1 choke off , 2 choke on a little , as mine was in the car ,3 choke full on
I have ordered new Needles , dampers and springs , so I know I have a matched set , Will try them and making sure the chokes are seated right , and go from there !
Cleaned and rebuilt the Distributor , all new service parts
Fitted the HT lead’s , need to change the cap over !
Read and took note the XJ6 engine block and head is longer , for the 2 extra water ways , hmm so had a look , god that oil feed pipe is close to the bulk head !!!
Still thinking about the rad , well , know what to do for the best , I fitted the old 240 rad , that top hose lines up 100% , the hose is a new 240/340 hose , only one problem !
The core is u/s , needs a knew one , got a quote for a uprated core , £270 ,
£45 to weld new pipe on the alloy rad , so will save that , sale the alloy rad for ??
So well on the way for the price of the re core !
Sun is out today , back to work tomorrow , so cup of T time one thinks , and think about the £350 I am spending , sniff sniff20180501_145346|666x500
I might be missing something but the operation of the choke cannot result in fuel flowing out the carb throat. in my experience the overflow is normally due to poor seating valves in the float chamber or more recently too higher pressure from the SU pump. The newer pumps put out in excess 3 psi. I have taken to fitting a fuel pressure regulator in these cars.
Points and condensor: how quaint…
Could also be a leak in the needle diaphragm. They do not flex in normal operation – only when adjusting the mixture. Mine started leaking and when I removed them the crumbled in my hand.
HS Don’t have diaphragms
Your missing something Phil !!
Or I am , just had another look , the overflow pipe is a lot higher then the needle seat in the carb , would the fuel come out in to the air intake , through a worn needle , and if the fuel inlet needle and seat was not 100% !
Or maybe the fuel in the float chambers needs to be lower !!
If you are having fuel flood out of the carb also check whether the brass float in the float chamber has sunk or has petrol in it? I had this on my old S-Type and then the new one from Burlen had too much solder on it, was too heavy and sat lower which then caused all kinds of poor running.
I did check all that Homer , the floats in my HS8’s are made of plastic , , ok in some ways , but you can’t adjust them , ie bend the bracket a little , the reason I went with the HS8 carb is because they are so simple , no jets to adjust , no rubber diaphragms , I am sure they will be fine when I sort them !
This is correct, choke in or out the fuel level should be some distance down the jet oriface. It’s the float level that sets the depth of the fuel - obviously being the same level in the float bowl and the jet. I regularly check for leakers in my 7 operating SUs - comes down to the integrity of the needle and seat and the setting up of the float in the bowl. Just my A$0.02. Paul
“… integrity of the needle and seat and the setting up of the float in the bowl. Just my A$0.02” That; apart from the affront of the currency referred to.
" I wonder " if the car being jacked up would affect the fuel levels in the bowls , I did notice more fuel dripping out the carb close to the bulk head , front of car is around 2ft 2 off the ground to the bumper !
Just a thought .
Yes Ian it absolutely would. Even the fore and aft placement of bowls on front and rear carbs needs “compensating” if the engine lies low at the rear - like an XJ6 engine - even on level ground. It’s only a minor difference given the small distance between fuel bowl and jet centres and we “tune it out” as it presents. The three carbs on an E Type are as near as sh*t is to swearing - level. Depends on your car. Paul
Thanks Paul , I do hope to get the car back on the ground at the weekend , not ready to try and start it yet , as I am taking the Rad to have a new core today , not sure yet how long that will take !
Still have a lot of small jobs to do !
Hi Ian, my PO recored the original a numer of years ago and it failed where the core meets the top tank - could have repaired it (even maybe myself) but decided to try the Chinese Al copy. A bit of fettling and it went in - cools well and looks cool! FWIW. At A$236, worth the punt! Will repair the original in due course. Paul
Yes I have one , will be for sale soon
List for the weekend
Make 2 spacers , for Anti roll bar
Bleed clutch and brakes
Add engine oil , mark 14 1/2 pints on the dip stick
Bolt on hose connection to block , connect pipe to pump
Replace SU HS8 , springs , needles , and dampers ,
Change fuel filter
Fit distributer cap
Then it’s a wait job for the Rad !!!
Made 2 spacers for the Anti roll bar , hole in the middle is to lighten them a little !
Bolted them on with longer bolts , wax oil on everything .
Bleed brakes and clutch , with no issues , a few days back I read about how hard it was to bleed the clutch , I have never had a problem ,
Fill master cylinder , lay under the car , have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it down ,crack the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder , fluid and air runs in to a jar , do bleed nipple up , then pump and hold pedal down again , after a few times no air comes out , job done !!
Wheels back on , car back on the ground , God it looks low now after being jacked up a few weeks .
Bolt pipe fitting on block , wrap hose in silver foil , to reflect the heat from the manifold
Refit servo breather .
Adjust choke , think I used a cable that was too thick , was dragging in the outer cable , was stopping the choke shutting some times , so found a slightly thinner cable , works fine now , I did try fitting a spring , but when the choke was on , ie the 240 leaver , the force of the spring would not let the choke stay locked on , guess that’s why Jaguar used a rod !
The manual choke is made up of parts from a job lot I got , my own design , works 100% , cost nothing as sold other parts on !
Fit new springs , needles and dampers to HS8’s , needles recommended , springs and damper XJ6 3.4 spec
Replace fuel filter , am I the only one who had the paper filter collapse on one side after a few weeks ?
Well found a new old stock original filter !!
Fingers crossed , turned the ignition on , then the fuel pump , fuel pump ticking away , slows down then stops , no fuel leaks , cool !!!
Add 14 1/2 pints of oil to engine , spin engine over , leave for 10 mins , pull dipstick and mark level on the 240 stick , more or less the same as the xj6 stick
With the oil in 25 lt drum had to use 2 jugs , last one being the smaller , added 2 pints at a time , made a note of each poor , after 7 poor’s could see me asking was it 5 or 6 lol
Took the rad to have a new core fitted , up to 2 weeks !!!
But I do have another rad to fit , to start the engine !
Fitted distributer , new one would not go in , turned out the rubber had gone hard , was not a O ring , about twice as wide , fitted a new 0 ring , and it went in ok ,
Went to change the leads on the cap , another problem , old cap has screw in ends , new has push fit , ggrrrr !!
Looked for a 45D6 cap with screw in lead ends but could not find one , so have ordered brass ends !
Think that’s about it , today I will but the inside back together
May fit the old lead set and rad , and start her up tomorrow !!
Last pic , well it’s not all work !
Loving this - better than any soap or series. Very impressed with ‘get on and do’ approach - well done, and is the 99’er an indication of progress?
Thank you Tigger , ice cream van come up the close yesterday , first one in about 20 years , how could I not go and get one