Lets build a 1967 e type together

(69 FHC ) #144

Me too, with the substitution of “69” for “68”.

On the 2+2 I cleaned my original foam by repeatedly washing it in a 5 gallon bucket of hot water and laundry detergent. lather, rinse, repeat about 6 times followed by compressing it between two towels and a full day under the hot Houston sun and practically all the oil was removed.

I briefly considered taking it to the Laundromat using a front loader with no agitator, but I couldn’t subject their machine to that abuse and pity the next person with a load of whites.

(j limongelli) #145

SNG has them new for 30 dollars, plus no oil soak, fumes and gas.
Thanks guys
Isnt this fun, better than watching the tv…


Looks great but isn’t heat build up within the gearbox an issue with all that sound/heat insulation around the casing?

(1968 E-Type FHC) #147


If it’s SNG part # BD27833 you’re looking at, be advised that the foam is not anywhere near as dense/thick/heavy as the original. It might be just as effective, IDK, but after my new one came in from SNG I put the oil soaked original back on the gearbox. FYI

Enjoying your progress!

(69 FHC ) #148

That’s why I cleaned mine as best I could and reused it. :grin:

(D Barnes) #149

I have the TV on the Barrett Jackson Scottsdale live and another primrose '67 FHC just sold for $100K but this one was a open headlight car. Looked nice on the outside but it was a pretty quick sale with no views under the bonnet or interior. Wonder if I need to up the value with Hagerty on my '68

68 E-type FHC

(Ole Würtz) #150

Recognized as someones old mattress.
My S3 has some foam I’d describe as closed cell foam, which should not soak up oil and become a fire hazard.

(Steve) #151

Count me in on the ditto. Plan on cleaning mine and reusing.

(j limongelli) #152

I agree with ALL of you
Reproduction parts are a 90 percent chance they are junk!
As usual for that price if it’s no good it goes in the pile
Lately I never throw out original anything!
Look at the progress
My wife did the insulation
I rewired the choke light , look at the hack job before it🙄
Once you ground home runs the car is soooo much better
I haven’t looked at the diagram yet
Is the light switch grounded to the center dash or a wire from the switch
If not I’ll run a ground to the body like everything else
Enjoy my friends, enjoy
Tons more parts tomorrow!

(j limongelli) #153


I ground the crap out of everything British
Never have an issue
No stainless on the ground bolts

(1967 FHC) #154

Unfortunately, I had no original to put back in place. I ordered the SNG replacement, but it was incredibly difficult to put into place. After much consternation I was finally able to do it, but geez. I would have cleaned up the original and used it if I had one.

As for the heat shield insulation that goes under the floor and inside the gearbox tunnel I used what @64etype, Eric, used. It was DEI heat shield custom fitted using cardboard pieces I custom cut and used to trace a patter on the product: http://designengineering.com/floor-tunnel-shield-ii-extreme-heat-shield/


(j limongelli) #155

I will do the same when I pull the engine and tranny, for now its just cleaning up 50 years of lose ends.
Just the rubber shift boot alone keeps the stink out.
Ive had this car 10 days…….
Its very relaxing/cursing and fun all at the same time.

(j limongelli) #156

Does she look wonderful

(Erica Moss) #157

Is this following in the “it should be too pretty to hide” motif, or were you just trying to find some busy work for your wife? I don’t think I’ve ever seen a trimmed out trans tunnel cover :flushed:

(Geoff Allam) #158

I don’t think it is trimmed. Looks like some sort of dynamat clone type product?

(j limongelli) #159

It is dynamat
The thin version just for these jobs
I can’t post a video but if I could you would see a huge sound difference from bare metal to the covering

(Erica Moss) #160

Ah I see. Have you done a trial fit? The extra thickness where it wraps around the bottom might cause it to sit high and interfere with the center console. Mine wouldn’t allow for any material between the cover and the tunnel. I had to trim everything around the edge. You can always just loosen the fabric and let it hang down to cover the seam.

(j limongelli) #161

Yes it’s the new
3/8ths spongy it’s paper thin but just kills vibration and noise
I’m using it because of the speakers and console to follow
No echo or vibration
Also it’s not the heavy black dum dum backing it’s peel and stick
Compared to nothing it’s great
When you pull the drivetrain
All else will be covered from underneath!

(Geoff Allam) #162

Does anyone have an opinion on using the spray on sound and heat shields (lizard skin etc,) vs. the dynamat type products. It seems it would be an easie4 way to get good complete coverage when doing a restoration.it seems each product claims to be the most effective. Anyone have actual experience?

(Nick Saltarelli) #163

The SNG replacement needs fettling in order to fit. As received it’s much too bulky, but it’s far easier to remove material than to add it. Trial fit, cut some material away, trial fit, cut a bit more, repeat and repeat again till you get it right.

My foam insulation was a sopping, disintegrating mess. I turfed it without regret. I shaved and shaped the block of foam from SNG to fit with an electric carving knife. Nothing else will do the job as precisely.

Really, gents, mechanical spares should be plug and play but everything else you should expect will need fettling. Part of the restoration gig.