64etype, your dimmable speedo and tach are perfect. The light appears evenly distributed around the circumference so I’m assuming the LED strips are relatively deep in the casings. Your other instruments look pretty good too but I’m thinking the best way to match color and balance intensity across all gauges would be to use the same strip lights everywhere and connect them all to the same dimmer. It seems like that would address the problem caused by differing bulb hole locations in the center panel gauges. Did you avoid that option for a reason I’m not seeing? (P.S. I know you said that this was described in detail at forum.etypeuk.com but I’m having difficulty registering at that site.)
I boosted the dash id strip below the toggles with led bulbs, the same as the chock light.
I will have pictures soon but its a huge improvement.
Im still waiting on the ammeter.
Before I button up the center dash.
I spent many hours in the dark garage experimenting and found the best location is indeed at the rear of the case for the two large indicators. There’s also a light blocking shield around the odometer because too much light was bleeding through.
I avoided LED strips in the small gauges because it looked like a huge pain in the ass. I had an assortment of lens shapes from my experiments with the speedo, tach, signal light indicators and warning lights. By experimenting with a few lense shapes (concave, convex, etc), I was able to get satisfactory balance between them. I speak to this in the UK string attached below (post #57),bulb numbers are cited. Further, I believe that no matter which approach is taken for the small dials, there will inevitably be a balance issue between the small gauges and the big ones. That means one or the other has to have a dimmer . I had no idea if an overall dimer could be used with another dimmer in the circuit. By the way, back when this was happening, there was basically one LED model number for strip lights. There are now brighter segments instrip lighting, so this is something to take into consideration.
The UK site is up and running…here’s the old string I mentioned…there are others regarding LEDs on that site with great detail http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2859&hilit=led
I appreciate the info. Picture 14 at http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2859 shows LED strip lights above the center gauge cluster serving as a map light. It does a great job of illuminating gauges, gauge labels, toggles, and toggle labels. If that light was the same color as the tach and speedo backlighting, but separately dimmable, I bet it would all work together rather well, while highlighting the interior touches that make E-Types so special. Increasing the brightness of the dimmable center console lights could also serve as the map light, or the map light could be a separate row of white LEDs. This approach has a lot going for it, including not having to fiddle with lights inside the small gauges.
Sorry for a little delay was rebuilding and installing a db4 overdrive transmission
Astons are great but…your very restricted on parts
That’s why now I move on to the starter hoses and heater box
Before the carbs come
Guys I’m going with the h/t
They always forget to send bolts and washers plus I use a nylock nut
My old Lucas was rebuilt , it will be my spare
You can’t beat the cranking power and less energy to kick over
Will report back once I drain the antifreeze
The Db4 is coming off the lift
Going the whole 9 yards once…
I’ll get it on then remove the bonnet
Front end , rad, all suspension so it’s done
I’m going to try sng complete front end
Anyone else try it?
Also thermostats. I’ve been going 160
Look at the zip tie holding the wire down on the temp sender…nice
Plug wires as well
It’s all gotta go
Out of curiosity, what parts does their front end kit include. Are the bushings of a “known” brand?
In my opinion, a 160 thermostat is too cold. Running your engine cooler may give you a little more “pad” when sitting in traffic, but if you’re running down the highway at something like 160-165, then you’re putting unnecessary wear on your engine. I believe you were planing a fan and radiator upgrade anyway, right? If so, then you probably don’t need the “pad” anyway, and then there’s no upside whatsoever to running colder than 180-190…the engine runs more efficiently, less wear, oil stays cleaner, etc.
I would agree with Ben, a 160 engine is not hot enough to be efficient. I would / did go with 180. If you have issues with overheating, address those by fixing whatever is causing it, rather than a cold engine. Timing, mixture, and a fully functioning, clean,cooling system and you should be good. Then upgrade your fan/s if needed.
Ben SNG supposedly has BRAND NEW upper and lower control arms complete and new.
Sealed ball joints, new bushes just bolt on and play.
Im getting all the details today.
Before the carbs , im not rushing it.
entire front suspension
vented disc brakes
and a complete new steering rack.
This way Im done for another couple of years.
Ive been running 160 thermostat , but we shall see with the alum rad and possible different exhaust lets see which way.
Does the 67 use the same thermostat as the 68 that has the poppet that closes off the bypass when hot ? Has been a long time since I shopped but coldest I could find was a 170 or 180 I think. I would love to find a 160 that is of the proper style since I am in Texas. I have always tried to run 160 in my 60’s and '70’s cars and had good engine longevity in Houston traffic.
68 E-type FHC
Joey, I put SNG’s black poly bushes in A-arms in place of perfectly good Metalastiks. (ain’t broke, don’t fix lesson). Mine don’t squeak…maybe a slight improvement in turn in. No downside in compliance. Could be mentally justifying all the work it took to R&R. Very close to OE in any case.
No exp. with complete A-arms assemblies.
Re-setting T bars is always character building. Enjoy!
I had terrible overheating problems in DC. Finally put in a modern fan and now I sit on tariffic with the ac on and the top down.
From ‘96-‘02, my daily driver was my V8-powered Mk1 Cortina. I would do at least 60 miles a day in rush hour traffic, and the car didn’t like to sit still, so I ran a 160 thermostat to give me that “pad”. It ran down the highway at 160, but began to climb once I got in traffic. When I pulled the engine out in ‘02, the bores that were fresh in ‘96 were very, very worn.
These days I run a 180 thermostat, a (mechanical) fan with a much more aggressive pitch, and a very tight fitting radiator shroud that pulls air through the entire radiator core, and it will idle all day without climbing above 190. I even have the same radiator I had 20 years ago.
That was costly lesson in treating the cause, not the symptom.
None of mine have any cooling problems in any traffic but I have always adopted the “cooler the better” approach for the Texas environment. Even my Vega with AC on high will not climb above 190 in stop and go on a 95 degree day. I have not touched inside of that engine since '92 and 130K miles . Good oil, good cooling and gentle warm up has been my approach for 40 years. I know the new engines are supposed to be much better but makes me cringe when I see folks start up cold and immediately take off like a rocket. The Coolcat fans solved my traffic problems with the E but I still would like to find a 160 thermostat for it of the proper style.
68 E-type FHC
I’m not sure if the whole upper arm casting is new or just a machined original one. That sealed joint has been available for a while from a UK vendor but I think sales were low because it requires machining so it was only suitable for an arm that was too far gone to be serviceable. Before buying them, I’d want to know what the joint actually is from and would want to purchase spares because they could certainly wear out though perhaps not for quite a while.
I’m getting the whole break down…
Look 30 years ago when I was shimming uppers and lowers, the swivel opening was getting distorted from wear and tear.
You had to find NOS which I did from WELCH at the time, then came xj40 lower ball joints sealed.
So I’m curious I hope it is what they say. Also all plated for corrotion as well.
Ive run 160 thermostats for years, and I understand running to cold in a BIG car but in the etype its sooo tight, I used anything to help with heat.
BUT WE SHALL SEE…
It’s running temp, and the resulting piston-to-bore clearance that will wear out your engine. If your car is running a consistent 180-190 with a 160 thermostat, then you must be living right. My experience is that cars with a cold thermostat often run near that set-point when there is plenty of air flow.
This is why boat engines run huge piston to bore clearances, when compared to car engines. They are constantly ingesting cold water, so their bores don’t grow much in comparison to their pistons…running your cooling system too cool has the same effect, to a lesser degree…no pun intended.
Very interesting photos
All the center Gage’s have the led except the right gage ammeter
Next look st the pan shot with the tach and speedo its dramatic!
Ammeter on the way and if they don’t Mae anew speedometer and tach I will restore the originals
Almost forgot on the menu strip I removed the green plastic strip for the matching clear effect
You cannot even see the am gage, its sooooo bad……
Im having so much fun.