Now your talking………I get the main power source then the feeds…
On closer inspection is the alt and a/c on a serpentine setup?
Moving on, I went to replace the squirter rubber gaskets and the repros were junk, They just fell off and had no give.
Off to the hardware store and will post pictures…
The water gage will be here, leaving just the amm to go.
Now your talking………I get the main power source then the feeds…
The AC belt is a large section serpentine V-belt. I’d prefer a modern flat belt, but this one works.
If you decide to revamp your electrical system at a later date contact me and I’ll send you a copy of the new wiring diagram. It’s currently in draft form. By the way, the ammeter is bypassed in this configuration making a voltmeter conversion simple. There are relays for hi beam, low beam, parking/instrument lights, radiator fan (two relays…one for Otter switch activation and one for AC activation…same as S2 with AC), heater fan hi and low, horn, starter and electronic ignition. The AC power is on a kit provided circuit breaker. The wipers stay on the fused switch, primarily because two more relays take up more space and the load is not all that high, rarely activated, and then only when alternator loads from the AC are probably low (raining). That said, it’s easy enough to relay that as well with this system architecture. The instrument lights are wired to the parking light switch position on the original rotary light switch (now carrying very low amps required to switch the related relay). All panel lighting is LED and remain at a constant brightness setting anyway (the tach and speedo are on an independent floating dimmer in order to balance them with the center panel lighting). So the panel light switch is disconnected. Fuel pump remains on a fuse (no relay). Warning lights are all fuse only. The key switches a large 100A power relay (for switched circuits) instead of carrying high amperage through the switch…no more white wiring related fires. The large relay gets it power from one of the large 40 amp fuses under the heater box.
Bob Skelly designed this architecture looong before it became popular to scab on a relay to the headlight circuit, for example. Clever guy. Bob also came up with a design for North American S1 tail lights (red signal light lens) where both segments/bulbs are used as running lights (doubles the illumination at cruise). He also has a circuit diagram for the flashing “back off” tail light modules. …significant safety features. Unfortunately his web set disappeared when he changed internet providers, and I haven’t seen it since.
That is truly disturbing: he had some demon mods, and great descriptions of how-to.
We are on the same page…Will be grateful for that down the road…
I will have a new rear window rubber gasket coming and will document the fun or reinstalling the trim.
I would not have touched it as its the original but because the car is so dry and virgin, hopefully the new gasket will work as good as the hatch!
My design is similar to what you’ve done. I do have the fuel pump on a relay, but the turn signals are not on a relay and remain as original. The 3 relays shown behind the glove box I had to relocate as they weren’t accessible with the rest of the dash in. No main power through the ignition switch. You can just see the wiring at the stock fuse connections diagram, but it would be confusing as I drew it for my use only - the mini relay panel is correct as shown.
Of course my battery is flipped, so you need to take into account.
FYI, this is the RetroAir (now Classic Air) belt arrangement for their 4.2 kit as of a couple of years ago. I think I’d use the factory double pulley system in conjunction with a modern compressor for a 4.2 installation. Then use the Retro Air evaporator inside. It looks like the original, but it’s supposed to be more efficient. Again, the only version of that UK kit that I’d remotely consider is the one with the evaporator inside the car (in the radio console space). The designs with the evaporator next to the exhaust manifold (in the heater box) won’t stand a chance outside northern Europe. But the problem with the unit in the console is that it messes up the interior look and space allocation even worse than the RetroAir/factory unit.
A photo of my remotely located electrical panel is attached. The back wall of the glove box is removable for access. Additional Waytek mini-relays would fit in this space.
Well the ht starter came with many other goodies
Look close as there is a jumper
I guess the white red from the key goes to the other small post
Will call sng
Thanks wiggles for the info!
Ahhhhhhh answers from the peanut gallery.
I don’t need the red jumper wire on my later 4.2 series 1.
All I do is take my whire/red wire from the key and put it on the stud above the black rubber boot on the left side.
Remove the jumper and just have the brown positive to the big post!
The jumper was for 3.8 cars.
Oh well I’m saving even more weight!
One for the masses
My oil gage socket is to the right not center
Soooo when the lights are on there was a glare on the one side
Below look at the gage with a led bulb then an old fashion bulb then a bulb with a sharpie in black covered on one side!
Viola! The glare is gone!
Loving this crap
I used silver first with different combos but eventually the black did the trick
The led is ice cold
I wonder if the two small terminals achieve the same thing: excite the solenoid to close?
I like door #1 from above photos
me too. The needle will go towards the light.
At my age I try to avoid references about going toward the light(:
So long as the light is operated by a Lucas light switch… yer golden!
I like door number 1 too but compared to the others it looks the next step brighter.
Its because the bulb is favored on one side of the gage not in the middle.
We shall see.
I fixed the map light……
I cant stand old crap hanging on by a thread.
I peeled back the purple and purple /white , soldered on new bullet bells , put the led bulb added more wire and crimped to existing wires then sleeved the whole thing in shrink tube.
It looks great and held the wires to the defrost tube with the NEW rubber strapping from SNG , that stuff is the real deal.!
A horrible picture but look close before I touched up the bulb on the oil gage
Water is perfect
Oil is to loud
Temp is perfect
The ammeter which is original with green tint and bulb is non existent
Look at tach and speedo
They are a joke!
So you see where it goes, the map and interior lights are perfect!
I tried individual bulbs in the Speedo and tach and they were too dim. Eventually I did the strip lighting glued to the circumference of the cases (described in detail by a number of “researchers” in the UK string I mentioned above). When I was finished, the two big dials were far too bright in relation to the center panel, and the small gauges looked very dim. After I installed a dimmer on the tach and speedo the center panel gages miraculously got brighter…the tach and speedo intensity was messing with my cones and rods. It’s all pretty well balanced after installing that dimmer.
By the way, because the location of the light sockets were in different locations in the small gages, I was forced to experiment with various LED lense/bulb shapes to get a balance between them. I can’t recall which ones are rounded and which are concave lenses…but they are different among the gages. The bulb supplier and the specific bulb numbers (for green bulbs) are somethere in that UK thread. Balance is still not perfect, but not bad.
Eric, You are spot on…
Look at my Tach and speedo, new ones coming from the UK when they have them in a couple of months, WITHOUT THE FILTERS .
Same with the ammeter.
I got the balance really good as you have said.
I also agree that a full strip around the gages was a bit much.
This is all till wiring gets done in the future.
I cant wait for the ammeter, then the center will be very even.
It is embarrassing looking at the original ammeter in the picture , that’s with a new bulb AND cleaned grounds.
With the dimmer, I’d say the strip lighting inside the tach and speedo casing is perfect. Distribution over the gauges and intensity on those two indicators is just right.
Strip lighting in the small gauges was unnecessary once I got the balance between them straightened out (lense shapes).
Eric the bottom display strip bulbs led do not go all the way through the hole like the old bullets
It’s because of the flat spot on the led
Are there smaller bulbs or do I massage the led bulbs?