future note- Don’t let your front suspension hang for any length of time. My brand new steering rack mounts began to delaminate. Found out when they tried to align front end. Ended up getting solid mounts.
Thanks Michael, When I tackle the front end,it will be all new from SNG in one shot.
It will be a bit more but I want to see the quality ," Will "has never steered me wrong from SNG and will admit when to use nos over a re pop or a revised new piece.
I should receive the rear hatch rubber today but since its -10 we hold off for a day.
He also has a great staimless exhaust with a more stock sound , so will try that with the stock manifolds to start.
I never liked the exhaust header, it looked great and saved 50 lbs but it was to tinny to my ear.
We shall see.
Learned that lesson yesterday [belatedly].
Earlier I happily schmeared a generous layer of Dyno to seal off the gearbox cover. Yesterday, sure enough, the center console wouldn’t swing open.
After some pondering, I unscrewed the cover, cleared off the excess gunk and forced it down with the following method:
I raised the trailing end of the cover to enable the front end to move down to the factory position [even 1/16" lower].
Then I drilled a pilot hole across both the cover and the bulkhead [pls forgive] and pinned the cover with a rivet. Then it was easy to leverage down the trailing end of the cover, compressing the foam, and screw the cover into the right place.
Trial fit of radio console was successful.
Great stuff…this is what its all about. I used 1/8th insulation on the cover, did you use the 1/4?
The material is great!
I think there is also enough variation in these cars where one guy might get way with insulation and another won’t.
They were assembled by hand check your build date if it was 3 pm on a Friday…GOOD LUCK…Ha Ha Ha
also you could cheat and cut out the top padding like a groove so the radio console fits into.
On another note as we are below zero, I have a replacement oil gage, it works fine but doesn’t have the blue or green in my case filter. Its stark white.
Does it lay in there or is it glued before I pull a gage.
SNG has the strips for the bottom so I can cut one up.
Thanks in advance again.
the filters were riveted in from inside. the heat from the bulbs caused them to get hot and fall apart. that and I am sure a few bulbs were forced in and then pushed what was left of it inside the gauge to rattle around in the bottom.
I have not been able to find a source for new plastic filters myself.
One way around that is to finish breaking out the plastic and install colored LED bulbs in place of the stock bulbs.
Bob/John you couldn’t make this up
I was just doing the same thing!
I’m going another route…
Let me explain
My 66 I put the led bulbs and they were wonderful!
I put them in this car and they stunk
My other car had new gages or the am gage the filter removed!
On this car my oil looked great it was a new gage with no green or blue filter!
So I’m getting the others new
Except the am since they don’t make it and run the led bulbs it’s s huge! Difference
I’ll remove them on the speedo and tach later and send pictures
On my series 2 I left it alone the light never were good for nite driving
I’ll save my originals for after my funeral for one of you guys okay!
Will report back the progress
I installed these even with the filters in place, being careful not to force them too far of course.
the improvement was still huge compared to the old incandescent bulbs.
I didnt want to punch out all my filters as they are all still intact and the couple that were not were replaced with gauge backs from other gauges with good filters. a lot of work unless you are OCD about this like me.
I hope you dont just punch the filters out. pretty sure that removing the rivets will cause the socket to fall off so I dont know how you will or can, unless you have a way to re-rivet the socket.
someone on one of the forums used the flat LED light strips around the perimeter of the gauges, that seems to me to be the best way to get real light on the gauges at night. but its a lot more work
But overall you are right, its better with just bulbs and no filter, but I try not to drive after dark as I still have original Lucas headlamps and I live where the deer are like rabbits and jump in front of cars all the time. I would rather not meet one in the E. I will risk in my other cars.
Im not going to touch mine, replace them with new, supposedly there is not am gage BUT…………
Everyone chime in on this one.
Why not a SERIES 2 VOLT GAGE, Ive heard guys do it. Is it wired diffrernt?
I need all hands on deck for this one!
Someone must know, this way if they remake that one ill swap it and have a real volt gage.
what say yoooooozzz
It took me 12 years to graduate the third grade
How come our kids don’t think this stuff is interesting?
As you can see I took a gage with the green filter and just showed the clear difference to a standard bulb
I’d show you the oil gage with no filter but it’s minus ten degrees!
Remember each old bulb is 3 or 5 watts but because I’m old and can’t see I’m guessing from years ago🙄
I’m not a scientist but the equal led soft white is measured correctly and let’s say we have 10 bulbs across the dash to make it simple it’s either 30 or 50 watts the old way compared to maybe 5 probably 3 and no heat at all and no draw on the wiring?
I like it baby!
I gotta laugh. mister new technology and yet you are using your boy scout lantern battery from the 60’s !!
I didnt even know they still sold those. I am going to head over to the Western Auto and get one.
just having fun with ya!!
Can I request we all type in caps as well😂
Those lantern batteries are the best, they are perfect for those tests and not heavy
Believe me a rewired a 1952 DB2, simple but you had to ring out each wire because the I’d clothe was gone
Make fun you’ll be old one day
IS THE ORIGINAL AMMETER GAGE PART NUMBER 36342RB?
A possible cause of undue strain on your rack mounts, when your front suspension is completely unloaded, could be rod ends without the proper range of motion. E’s require a rod end with a wider range. If your car does not have the correct rod ends solid mounts are shifting the strain elsewhere…
For the record I did another test
I used 3m glue on a board them put a piece of dymamat it held and did not dissolve
Next I put a piece on top of a piece if I had a Low spot
Next I sprayed more 3m and put a piece of vynil
It all stuck together and didn’t fall off
Moral is you can just about do anything it won’t get destroyed or need for old original batting
Within 5 minutes it was all glued like a rock!
“Everyone chime in on this one.
Why not a SERIES 2 VOLT GAGE, Ive heard guys do it. Is it wired diffrernt?
I need all hands on deck for this one!”
There’s this thing called “Search”… This string on the UK site is referenced in a search of Jag Lovers.
You asked about a fuse panel upgrade earlier…here it is in the UK upgrades section
There’s not much new under the sun in the E-type world, and most of it is well documented in the archives of this site, the UK site, Coolcat site, and JCNA.
Eric how long do you own your etype?
Roughly thirty five years.
You sure have that righ the wrong tie rod ends with out the range od motiont! A number of years ago I sent back a set of tie rod ends that did not havethe range of motion necessary for an E-Type. They were most likely for an XJ6 and as I received no satisfaction from the supplier, after going into detail of the problem and paying the return postage myself, I wrote them off of my supplier list and told everyone that I knew to beware of what was one of the largest Jaguar parts supplier in the country!