Grounds connection for front headlight assy

(David Jauch) #61

The shoddiest so far. Good?
(Admittedly, the warning lamp may get back inside where it belongs…).

(Aristides Balanos) #62

Yes, I see your point, correct indeed.

(Aristides Balanos) #63

Very good…!

Or it could stay there warning the cars in front !!!


(tony) #64

I am a little confused here, as to me , with (say 4 relays), the (blue) flick switch is then isolated to switching on the relays only, never powering a light ?

so only milliamps, rather than many Amps ?

I think 4 x fused relays right near the lights, 2 on each side will be best

Fuse 1 & 2 would be practically redundant

(Robin O'Connor) #65

Tony, practically is the operative word, still need to protect against a frayed wire.
On my ‘S’ I came across some ‘new’ wiring for the spot lamps. Found out that the 5 way connector had perished and was shorting out.

(tony) #66

Indeed, replace with 5A fuses, as suggested by a previous poster

its a pretty unhappy arrangement with all that current right in the tightly packed fusebox, and 8ft wires to the lights

(David Jauch) #67

Yes, but just use two very small fuses 2A or 5A or something instead of the large fuses (1 and 2) so the milliamps are still protected. (edit-exactly). Theoretically, leave them, but if something would go wrong there would be more smoke then… They are not made redundant, there is no second fuse on the circuit justg because the relay fuses the next circuit that powers the lamps!

4x fused relays, no idea about what on which side, just put them where the bullet connectors are (if the space allows).
Just go by my diagram; and you’ll see how the switch only switches milliamps now, the two relay coils and the light are all it has to manage.

(Frank Andersen) #68

The function of a relay is to deliver high current, Tony - using switches only to control the relay by small currents. This requires the relays to have a separate power source - bypassing the control switches, as illustrated by Aristides set-up

The stalk switch on the S2/3 is just a ground for the relay control, carrying on low current - the dip-switch in you original set-up carries all currents to the headlamps…

For crude conversion, reducing loads on light and dip switch, only two relays are required provided they have the necessary rating. One for low beam ‘outers’ and one for high beam ‘outers’ and ‘inners’. Fed from ‘mains’ (brown) and fused between relays and headlamps.

Existing wiring used to control the relays, and connecting relays to headlamps - and extra wiring for mains.

S2/3 used a single relay with full-flow through switch and relay. But with two separate outputs from the relay - using two relays controlled by these outputs, would reduce switch/relay current to relay control currents…

It’s all a matter of what you actually want…

xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)

(Paul Wigton) #69

Bumping this up, in hopes someone can answer your question.

(David Jauch) #70

What question? 19, 20

(Paul Wigton) #71

These ones…

(Robin O'Connor) #72

This is the earth on my ‘75 S11 NZ built car;

(Jochen Glöckner) #73

Thanks Robin,

glad to see my parts are original - or at least were common on older cars. Now I’m still left with finding the right diameter end tubes fitting those eyelets. At least, in your car there is one ground wire fitted. And the clamp is oriented vertically - will correct that.



75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)