Engine Transplant 1984 XJ6 Vanden Plas

(Doug Dwyer) #41

To clarify, we’re talking about a 4.2 fuel injected, right? From a Series III XJ6, or late Series II?

If so, the “S57” wiring guide has all the info…color codes, ECU pin numbers, etc.

Non-expert disclosure but I don’t think impedance, wire length, etc will be an issue. I don’t think the system is that sensitive or sophisticated. Well, maybe if you greatly increase the overall length of the wiring there might be an issue…but I can’t easily envision that being required unless you’re using the system in a cabin cruiser :slight_smile:


(Paul Wigton) #42

A 7/82…which is a late SII?

Could I trouble you for a copy, thereof?

Nope: it’ll be within 2’ of the engine, just under the Jeep cowling.

(Aristides Balanos) #43


Why not take the seats out ?
It’s a half an hour job, lift the carpets and take the harness out with the less cutting possible…
You don’t want five hundred connectors, do you ?
If you need to cut then cut at the ends, where you can just replace the connector.
My two cents…


Even the Heynes manual has the colours, 95% correct.
Better though, mark which cable goes where before you remove the harness.

(Paul Wigton) #44

Cuz…I’m f***king lazy, and the car is outside?


Given my near-inability to do chop jobs, I’ll likely just wait for a good day, and do it the right way…grumble grumble, grumble…!

I’ll go searching for a Hayne manual!

So I do not further kidnap this thread, please take any and all (welcome) comments, to here.

(Doug Dwyer) #45

Nope, that’s Series III


(Carl Hutchins, Jr. ) #46

My say is go for the S57 Jaguar schematic.

Cut, solder and splice. Secure the splices with shrink tubing. I and others, more electronicly talented have been there, Not quite the same issue, but related !!!


(Frank Andersen) #47

I agree with Doug, Paul - impedance is not an issue. Being analogue, resistance variations with wire length is likely well inside engine management adjustment ranges. However; I’m not sure that your intended ECU placement is wise; it may, or may not, react to heat - and should be protected against it…

And I strongly agree with Doug’s advice; download the ‘S57’ wiring guide to your computer. It’s absolutely essential, if cutting and splicing is contemplated, to have, and fully understand, the wiring. Also comparing the physical wiring colours with the diagrams - as Aristides implies; wiring diagrams are not 100% reliable…:slight_smile:

xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)

(Paul M. Novak) #48

The donor engine from my crash damaged 1987 XJ6 is all cleaned up and ready to install into my 1984 XJ6 Vanden Plas. In addition to a thorough cleaning, polishing and painting, I adjusted the valve clearances, adjusted the transmission bands, replaced the transmission filter and pan gasket, replaced the distributor, replaced the core plugs after cleaning out the debris in the water jacket, replaced all the belts, and a whole lot more.
The unusually rainy weather here in southern California has delayed my paint work in the engine bay, but I continue to work on other parts of the car as I wait for some dry weather to paint.
Here are some pictures of the ready to install engine on my engine test stand. I will mount the intake and exhaust manifolds as well as a lot of the wiring and hoses after I install the engine.


(Frank Andersen) #49

I trust with proper care, Paul…

Beautiful work well done!

xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)

(Aristides Balanos) #50

Very nice indeed !!


(Paul M. Novak) #51

Yes, I adjusted the transmission bands with proper care. I have performed this task a few times before on my Series III XJ6s as preventative maintenance and it is much easier with the engine and transmission out of the car than in the car. :wink:


(Paul M. Novak) #52

David Jauch,
You asked about my engine transplant project on the Jag-Lovers XK engine list in a string on a different subject. Rather than hijack that thread I thought it best to answer it here.

You commented “Paul, did you blast or spray your head with aluminium or how did you get it this pretty? Neat in any case.”

After cleaning the cylinder head multiple times with Simple Green and hand wire brushes, the aluminium still had unsightly and uneven discolorations. So I cleaned it again with a solvent and spray painted it with a high temperature cast aluminum engine enamel paint. The results were very nice. Thank you for noticing that in the pictures that I posted in the previous email.


(David Jauch) #53

These are the images I commented on: [xk-engine] 1969 E-Type misfire fixed with head from 1985 XJ6

Thank you for the reply, Paul. I have also used aluminum paint before and it does look good. Unfortunately, somebody long before me has painted the fuel rail with aluminium paint, the ‘glitter’ is visible in the fuel when changing hoses. In other areas it seems to hold up perfectly fine. I’m considering to paint my head like you did, and the brake assembly.


(JR) #54

I can only dream of an XK engine that clean!

JR 1985 XJ6 III

(Paul M. Novak) #55

Thanks. I appreciate that. All I had to do was completely remove the engine from the crash damaged donor car that I purchased, and then spend a month cleaning, painting, polishing, and replacing lots of parts. :wink:

Few people get the opportunity to do this once, and this is my second time with a Series III XJ6.

I am also restoring the engine bay of my 1984 XJ6 Vanden Plas to the same “as close to looking like new as I can possibly make it” appearance and it is coming out quite nice. We have been having some unusually wet weather that has delayed some my my engine bay paint work but it looks like I will finally get a break. With the warmer temperatures and drier conditions this week I plan to start painting again tomorrow. I will post some pictures of the engine bay when I am done. If there are no surprises I hope to install the donor engine into my 1984 XJ6 Vanden Plas by the end of next week, roughly 2 months after I removed it’s failing engine. Then all I have to do is connect everything back up and install all the parts I have rebuilt or purchased over the past few months. Piece of cake!! :wink:


(JR) #56

Paul, if ever in Bakersfield CA. Give me a holler. Still trying to get mine up and running correctly.

(Paul Wigton) #57

Dont think Ill get my Jee-Type engine that clean, but it certainly inspires me to continue with the project!

When I pop the bonnet at car shows, I think the comments will be… fun!

(Carl Hutchins, Jr. ) #58

Warmer down your way, Paul??? The news reported snow down that way!!!

Still can’t get past the 50s and rain predicted this way.

Nothing like a clean engine bay. I did something like that circa 2002. seemed a shame to install the clean LT1 into a greasy bay. I recall that oven cleaner was needed to get the “scat” off the front cross member. Paint went with it !! No matter, spray on some black Rustoleum. Still quite decent…


(Paul M. Novak) #59

Yes, there is snow on the mountains in east San Diego County. We have a nice view of that from our house, but no snow at our house this year. It looks like it will be sunny, dry, and warmer with temperatures in the mid to high 60s for the next week, so it’s time to paint again.

The temperatures have been below freezing at night and barely warming up into the low 50s during the day, so the rain and cold have delayed my engine bay painting. We have received record rainfalls since November, about the time I started the engine swap. It is forecast to be dry and into the high 60s this week, so it is time to paint again.

I have some Rustoleum primer and satin black enamel to brush on the subframe and Rustoleum spray primer and custom mixed topcoat to match the exterior for the inner fender walls. Brake fluid surely takes its toll on the paint beneath the brake fluid reservoir and took a lot of effort to clean up the failed paint and rusty metal. I finished painting the asbestos head shields with high temperature engine enamel before it turned cold and they look superb. The pre-paint masking took a lot of time, masking tape, and old newspaper because of all the components in the engine bay that I did not want to remove or get paint on.

I used Simple Green, lots of different brushes and “elbow gease” for the cleanup. I did not use anything like oven cleaner or engine degreaser due to my concerns about fumes and unintended consequences of harsh chemicals on wiring, connectors, and electrical components.

The finished sections of the engine bay look amazing. I will post pictures when the engine bay cleanup is complete and ready for the cleaned up engine.


(Carl Hutchins, Jr. ) #60

Oh, me, sure would like to see some dry high 60’s!!

I restricted my use of oven cleaner to the sub frame only. As you say very caustic, care needed,

I used a simple silver colored spray can on the heat shields on the fire wall. still look good.

The bonnet under side issue remains. The moth eaten bear skin like mat gone. Planned fix not executed… A bed liner spray !!!