1969 Jag Series 2, 4.2l Rebuild Story

(Paul Wigton) #844

You realize, of course, these videos will live on in the annals of Jaguar restoration folklore, right?
Like Jerry Mouton’s, like Bill McKenna’s, like Mark Delong’s?

Good on ya!

I remember well the “petrified foam fall!”

(Joel F Hutchins) #845

Once I watched your video the question about a possible difference between a FHC and a 2+2 is answered. The FHC has the headliner glued to the roof where as the 2+2 has a fiber board that ‘slips’ into the area.
The ‘cantrail covers’ have a rubber ‘side piece’ that is pushed into the slot between the roof and the cantrail. It is not possible to slide the piece the length. Just push in the fabric covered rubber with a putty knife (I used a egg turner {new} covered with teflon) and straighten it out. I glued Landau foam on my cantrail before inserting the cantrail covers. I thought it would come out better.
Here is a link to some photos that might help, esp. #9.
Your video was (is) good.


(Steve) #846

Thanks for the tips. I do appreciate the feedback.

(Steve) #847

Maybe next time one of my kids ask “What did you do all day?” I can just show them the video… and when they ask “Can I drive the Jag?” I’ll just say “Who will help me plant the seeds…”

The Little Red Hen just drives away.

(Steve) #848

Who designed this!!! Limited access and none of my wrenches will reach. Is there a secret I’m missing to remove this fuel connection?

(William H Wayman 1970 S2 DHC) #849

I suggest you put the bolts back in and then use a line wrench to remove the fuel line. Then remove the bolts.

(Eric) #850

The site for the attached link along with Jerry Mouton’s photos, the UK factory original thread, and John Carey’s videos were my go to sources during my '64 restoration. Different year than yours, but much of it still applies. I linked to the sub section regarding headliner installation, but there are many great tips elsewhere in the blog.


(Andrew Waugh) #851

You get a special badge if you remove and refit this connection on your own, with the IRS installed.

Put the two setscrews holding the flange to the body back on, then remove the olive nut on the IRS side (Half a flat at time iirc), then take the setscrews back out.

(Steve) #852

Fellow Jag enthusiast. Met up on my recent trip to Austin to help me visualize the future for my car!!

(Paul Wigton) #853

Bruthas, from different muthas??


(1967 FHC) #854

Glad you could come by today, Steve! It was a bright spot on the rainy and gloomy day. Sounds like you’ve got your car restoration going in all the right directions. Best of luck as you move forward!


(Steve) #855

It’s all in the lighting!!!

If so, muthu spent all the time and money on HIS Jag!

(Steve) #856

In watching BAT auctions, this 1968 2+2 showed up and it has A/C. It is missing the “3rd” bottle who’s location was called in to question early in my car’s story. Do you think mine was added later? I know older cars had 3 bottles. This 2+2 does not have one.
What’s going on with my 3rd bottle and it’s “location”?

(69 FHC ) #857

Do automatic transmission cars have a clutch fluid bottle?

(David Langley) #858

It’s an automatic…

(Paul Wigton) #859

Yours had the bottle moved, because of the AC lines running in its OE area.

(Steve) #860

Built two braces for the doors. First time running the welder on 1/8” stock. I laid a pretty decent looking bead, I must say! Painted ‘em cuz they were rusty… and it makes ‘em look naaaace!

(Paul Wigton) #861

You have come a LOOOONG way, pilgrim*…

*(Bear Claw, to Jeremiah Johnson…)

(Geoff Allam) #862

Now I feel bad that I neglected to paint my bracing!

(Steve) #863

My plan to attach the rotisserie to the back of the car is to use the 2 bumper locations to attach a 3x3 angle that spans the distance then rig to the rotisserie as approximated.

Any problems forseen?