1969 Jag Series 2, 4.2l Rebuild Story


(Paul Wigton) #744

On the whole, that is NOT a badly-damaged pidger frame.
If not internally-rusty, eminently fixable.

I really like Walker’s solution of the weld-in U-channel, for jacking resistance.

Make sure to use matching-numbers steel stock…:wink:


(Steve) #745

Great! It’s because of people like you, Paul, Erica, and many others on this website that I gain courage to battle on!!! I’ll i.m. you my address and I’m not sure how to prepay shipping but just let me know what it is and I can “venmo” it to you!
-Steve


(Steve) #746

Ok, before I admit this, there is no diagram in any of my books describing the three rubber sound dampener studs holding the fuel pump to the mounting bracket. The rear two are held on with opposing nuts/lock washers thru the bracket; easy enough. I complete removal of the fuel pump and then proceed to finish the task by removing the last dampener still attached to the bracket… after trying every tool in the box to get a grip on the nut, which is located in the “darkest depths of Mordor”, exacerbated I cracked open a beer and gave up for the evening. During sips it dawned on me… it’s a welded nut and the dampner must hand unscrews from the top!!! GOOD LORD!


(Paul Wigton) #747

Nice feature, eh?

:stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:


(Bill Bilotti 1966 S1 OTS (in boxes)) #748

“in beer there is truth”


(67 OTS mailed check Patron) #749

While you have the pump out, shoot some good rust proofing into the cavities.


(Steve) #750

I visited Lawrence Toneto this weekend and discussed my car with him. He is near Austin and has worked for “Classic Jaguar” & “Restoration-forgot-the-name”… in the past and has 30+ years working with E-types, now working on his own. He has quoted me three levels of body repair. One to the metal/tinning stage, next to the priming/pre-paint stage, and lastly to the full painted stage. I am leaning towards the initial one, allowing him to get my '69 body to the “good” metal, tinned, and pre-primed stage. It would include all the interior wax oil treatments. He wanted me to write up a contract and I am not sure what this should/shouldn’t include as far as details? For example, gap tolerances,straightness, etc?

Any input is appreciated.

My checkbook may turn out to be my most powerful tool…

-Steve


(Puddinhead) #751

Let us know how this proceeds; I was given his reference by another poster and although I’m in Florida, I was considering trailer my ‘66 fhc to him. The contract idea sounds reassuring, as it’s your car left at a person’ residence and what if he files bankruptcy Etc. Then your car is held up in the process; contract I would think protects both parties.

Patrick
'66 fhc


(Ed Overmyer) #752

Lawrence did the body work on my '63 OTS 15 years ago and I was really pleased with his results. I’ve had many complements on the fit & finish he achieved.
IMHO, it is too risky to enter this type of project without a contract that clearly puts the parties understanding in writing.
Another big concern I’ve always had is what happens if there is a fire, theft, damage in transit, etc. Theses risks might be “covered” by garage keepers policies, transportation companies policies, etc. Hagerty used to require that a restoration project had the engine installed to be insurable. Now they will provide coverage at agreed value that includes cars & parts under restoration. That made me more comfortable as I wrote the checks for my just finished '64 FHC project.


(1967 FHC) #753

Lawrence did the body work and painting on my car this summer. I had a very basic contract with him and that worked fine. Of course, I live in Austin so was able to drive out and see how things were proceeding and that made me feel good. I was also able to take progress photos: https://www.instagram.com/drewscherz/

Photo taken in Scottsdale in early October just before the GCOL:


#754

It looks like BD.75721 which is the “Seal and Retainer, for L.H. ‘A’ Post”.

It is an assembly comprised of:
BD.25717 - Rubber Seal, for L.H. ‘A’ Post
BD.23653 - Seal Retainer, for L.H. ‘A’ Post

Richard Liggitt


(Steve) #755

Well I’ve taken what seems to be forever off on the project. I won’t be starting anything significant until after January 1 but I am having a liquid refreshment out here as I look at the rear hatch

compartment lip. Question to the audience, does the inner lip on this look normal or is it bent? The top and bottom edge appears perpendicular to the main body, but the sides appear to lean back towards the body ( Video posted on YouTube. https://youtu.be/4P6ak7TjdII

p.s. I was a complete rookie when I named this blog. There’s a lot of redundancy in my title. I guess it could have simple been “1969 XKE FHC Story”…


(Paul Wigton) #756

Lips look generally fine to me.


(Les Halls 1968 S1.5 2+2 Atlanta) #757

When I first looked at the video I thought the right side had been kicked out but when you changed the angle of view it looks like the two sides of the channel are in fact parallel so it would seem that it’s not bent. There does appear to be a few places where someone has been “at it” with a hammer although not that drastically. Does/did the rear hatch leak?


(Steve) #758

Only owned it a year and it hasn’t been drivable so don’t know.


(Erica Moss) #759

I don’t get it. So in the top photo the lip is truly fully vertical and in the others it’s folded over? I don’t own a fixed head so can’t say for sure it’s right or wrong but if the lip on my OTS did that I’d suspect someone made a mod, maybe to try to allow the lid to fit flatter. Drew had an issue with his lid not fitting flat and it turned out a PO had left out necessary shims under the hinges to drop it lower.


(Steve) #760

Guess I need to put my eyes on a known good FHC


(Paul Wigton) #761

Search the picture archives, esp. Jerry Mouton’s and Bill McKenna’s.


(Craig Balzer) #762

Well – that simply makes you the Chief of the Department of Redundancy Department. :laughing:


(Jerry Mills) #763

Hey Steve,
Just looked at my '66 S1 2+2 that has never been hit (there anyway)
Looks just like yours. The inner lip is 90 degree to the bottom channel or another way to say it is the inner lip is parallel to the outer channel or you could say it forms an almost perfectly square “u” channel. [_] as is circles around.
Reading what I just wrote makes my head hurt, but anyway, your channel looks good. :tipping_hand_man: