A) download and label, daily.
B) buy an external HD: Costco has 6TB ones for $100.
A) download and label, daily.
It’s easy to concentrate on the wrong thing. When you’re removing the wiring harness, for example, you don’t really need to document which colour wire goes where - that’s what the schematic is for.
But where the harness passes through a hole in the firewall, how they lie on top of each other (particularly behind the dash), if a branch exits upwards, or downwards… that’s the stuff that you really need when you’re putting it back together.
And record where all those little black perf straps go. And save the buttons that hold them together.
That dash wiring was a mess, I used blue tape so that I could see which bundle went where over or under or twisted or sharp bend etc.
Juuuust wait’ll ya do the wiper mechanism, and the crossover pipes…which should be done with the stainless steel repops!
I think only one part got lost on my tear down. It was the first little clip on the end of the motor rod that I tried to pop off. It disappeared into the cave of the bulkhead and I wasn’t prepared to turn the car upside down and shake it to get it back. Steven Roundy came to the rescue. Then I learned to shove a large rag in there before attempting that job.
Like those four long box guide studs !
Yup, like he said. But the transfer pipes are no big deal and you should do them FIRST before any dash reassembly occurs!
I did the bottom two pipes then stopped cause other listers said to do wiper nozzles, or wiper rack, forget which at the moment, first. Then do last two pipes which are short and relatively easy
I am attempting to remove everything from the bulkhead (firewall !) cavity today. I assume the pipes are self explanatory because they are one piece. What is the order of extraction for the wiper assy? Advice, before I just start disassembling any nuts & bolts I can reach!
Wiper rack/pivots, then the crossover pipes: keep track of them, because, IMSMC, there are three different types.
On mine I found it easier to remove the end assemblies first. That shortened the entire rack and made it easier to extract from the side. The clips pry off (with nod to prior warning), then the push rod pops off the pivot pin.
I think it should be easier to leave the main motor drive rod attached to the rack, and instead disconnect it from the motor. Photograph the way it connects to the motor first as it’s a bizarre collection of parts. Then tape it to the rack to hold it out of the way.
edit: err mine is a 3 wiper rack. Your might just be 2 in which case no need to remove ends.
All 6-banger E’s are three wipers.
The later, 1970 and 1971 and maybe the 1969, 2+2’s are two wiper cars not three wiper. these are all sixes not V-12’s.
It is hard to keep track of everything.
Right: forgot about the Deaux by Deauxs!!!
Mine is 3 also and I’ve already disconnected the motor from the engine-side of the bulkhead. Took some head scratching and parts-twisting to figure that one out (and three nights sleep with beers in between naps)
MARK YOUR PIPE WASHERS! In my work I found that they are NOT universal. YMMV. It is good to have a second set of hands to push them forward from inside the cabin while you rivet them from the other side. I’ve forgotten who makes the good stainless ones but find out and get them.
I got mine from John Farrell, but, now that he is outta the bidness, not sure who has them…likely, all TUS!
John Farrel made them and they fit PERFECTLY! Perhaps the company who purchased his business has the same tooling he used. If you plan to enter a concourse the washer should be painted black and not left in naked SS.