1969 Jag Series 2, 4.2l Rebuild Story


(Nick Saltarelli) #583

For the liner, 6 mil poly and butyl rubber to stick it onto the door. Excellent reproduction door cards and new plastic coves can be had from OSJI in Muncie IN.


(David Langley) #584

Steve,

I suspect that everyone improvises something to replace the black plastic sheet. The door panels can be had from at least some of the “usuals” (e.g. XKs lists them, though they are to special order). The best source though, is probably one of the suppliers of interiors such as OSJI.

-David


(Mark M ) #585

69 Coupe

Since this portion of the thread is about doors, can I ask HOW best to paint and/or prime the inner portion of the doors; behind the glass etc, area? Obviously, when everything is removed.

Mark’
Murrieta, ca.


(Robert and Darlene Stevenson) #586

David,
Don’t worry about, I don’t!


(Alan Grossman) #587

“she turned her back on stardom, because she vanted to be alone”

Alan


(LLoyd (just a rithmetician)) #588

I just sprayed primer inside of them as best I could… then scuffed it a bit with sandpaper (didn’t do a good job) and then sprayed it gooooood with paint. I know it sagged and ran inside, but it is protected!!

LLoyd

A step backward, after making a wrong turn, is a step in the right direction.

Kurt Vonnegut


(Les Halls 1968 S1.5 2+2 Atlanta) #589

Does anyone have a list of steps/actions in the correct order for assembling the door innerds? After four years of not touching them I’m a little concerned that my recollections of what goes in first, second, third etc might not serve me too well.


(Paul Wigton) #590

Door handle, latching mechanism, then the window lift and frame.


(David Ahlers) #591

Mark, I pulled all window & lock mechanisms out. (soaked and scraped out the petrified grease). Painted the inside using the POR15 treatment to remove rust and seal with their paint. Almost every unrestored E has rusted doors at the bottom. Its tedious, but I do not think it will rust out in my lifetime. / Dave


(Les Halls 1968 S1.5 2+2 Atlanta) #592

Thanks Wigs but I believe one needs to install the rubber window wiper (or whatever it’s called) before the window frame and glass first?


(Erica Moss) #593

Yup, frame has to be removed. I just had to do this last week. It wasn’t fun because my chrome side trim is glued down for appearance.


(Paul Wigton) #594

Woops! Forgot that part! And…yes.


(Puddinhead) #595

Is it possible the head itself; perhaps leaking valves could be reason for lower compression ? You should be seeing at least 150. Do you know if you have 8:1 pistons ?

Patrick
'66 FHC


(Paul) #596

That was the case with mine, thank god.
Low on #2…thought ah sh*t…

Manifold off, when performed wet test i noticed it blowing out the intake port.

Leakdown test confirmed…whew.
Clearance on several intake, nothing.

Signs the head off in recent times noted.


(Steve) #597

9:1 pistons!!!


(Puddinhead) #598

At 9:1 it should read much higher.

Patrick
'66 fhc


(Puddinhead) #599

I can picture prior owner trying to do shim clearances, it can be a pita experience. He probably said himself, awh…thats close enough!

Patrick
'66 fhc


(Steve) #600

So after investigating the rust issue on the drivers side sill, I started MAJOR disassembly of every component forward of the bulkhead.

Question #1: has anyone in Texas/Ok done a complete car dip to bare metal and had satisfactory results to recommend a vendor (pm)?

Question #2: If the rust appears to be limited to the drivers sill/forward floor pans, battery shelf area, Should I consider just doing those repairs and not stripping the car to bare metal?


(Paul) #601

Worse. They completely didn’t care…
I hate that above all.


(Erica Moss) #602

Most people just get it media blasted. You might want to ask CJ who they use.